Friday, April 28, 2017

Gönül Tol ile mülakat : Erdogan, the Referendum and the Turkey's Future

Published on April 28th, 2017 | by Derek Davison0

Interview: Erdogan, the Referendum, and Turkey’s Future


by Derek Davison
On April 16, Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdogan and (most of) his Justice and Development Party (AKP) won a narrow victory, with a 51.4 percent majority, in a national referendum on changing Turkey’s constitution. That result was certified by Turkey’s electoral board on April 27. The vote paves the way for a sweeping overhaul of Turkey’s political system that will transform it from a parliamentary system with a ceremonial presidency to a presidential system with a strong and, some have argued, unchecked presidency. Turkish opposition parties have already appealed the vote, which drew heavy criticism from international monitors, but Turkish courts have rejected their appeal. Now the opposition has gone to the European Court of Human Rights, whose jurisdiction in this case, not to mention its ability to enforce a ruling against Erdogan, is questionable.
To understand how Erdogan was able to win and what his victory means for Turkey, and the world, moving forward, LobeLog spoke with Gonul Tol, the director of the Middle East Institute’s Center for Turkish Studies. Below is a lightly edited transcript of our interview.

LobeLog: The first question is, obviously, how was Erdogan able to win this vote?
Tol: I think if this referendum had been held a year ago, he would not have been able to win. A year ago, almost 65 percent of the Turkish people were opposed to switching to a presidential system. In the last year, the most important developments that led to his victory were the failed coup and increasing terrorist activity. Erdogan has always used the narrative of victimhood—that’s how he’s ruled the country since he came to power and that’s how he galvanized the voters and expanded his base. After the failed coup, he framed the presidential system—with him as president—as the only alternative to further chaos. So of those who voted yes, an overwhelming majority voted for Erdogan, and many of them didn’t really know the content of the constitutional changes. Those who voted “yes” mainly believed that it would be good for the country’s stability, it would be the only alternative to further terrorism, and it would be the only alternative to future coup attempts.
The short answer to your question is that the failed coup really helped Erdogan convince people, and of course there’s the ongoing fight against the activities of the PKK and the Islamic State (ISIS or IS). He used all of those and argued that he needed to be strong enough to provide stability. Otherwise, he argued, Turkey would see a return to the instability of the coalition governments of the 1990s and the terrorism of the 1990s. That’s how he framed it.

LL: One of the arguments we heard throughout the referendum campaign and in its aftermath is that, after several years of increasingly authoritarian governance—shutting down media outlets, imprisoning political opponents, purging critics from high-profile positions like academia—Erdogan had changed Turkish politics and media to make it impossible for the opposition to mount a real campaign. Is this a fair charge? How much did that matter?
Tol: Of course it did matter. If you turned on the TV, Erdogan and the “yes” campaign received 90 percent of the airtime. You have to consider the context. The most prominent challenger to Erdogan’s rule is behind bars, and that’s Selahattin Demirtas, the HDP [People’s Democratic Party] leader. The other opposition party, the CHP [Republican People’s Party], does not have access to mainstream media. Turkey is under a state of emergency, which means that the opposition was unable to hold rallies. So the only way for them to get their message across was over social media, and that’s a very limited audience.
There are four parties in the Turkish parliament. The leader of one opposition party [Demirtas] is in jail. Another opposition party [CHP] is not allowed to campaign. The third opposition party [the Nationalist Movement Party or MHP] was not in the opposition in this case, because they decided to work with Erdogan on the “yes” campaign. So while Erdogan was traveling the country (on state money) and using his strict control over media—newspapers, TV stations—basically there was no opposition. If you talked to people on the street about the referendum, they didn’t really know what the alternative was because they couldn’t hear the opposition’s message.
Framing the parliamentary system as an existential threat, referring to the failed coup, IS, and the PKK, and on top of that using all the state’s resources to campaign while denying the opposition the ability to campaign, that’s what handed Erdogan the 51 percent.

LL: There have been accusations that Erdogan and the “yes” campaign actually engaged in voting irregularities, specifically with respect to a late decision by Turkey’s electoral board to accept ballots that did not have the required stamp identifying them as valid ballots. Could that have affected the results, and how has it affected the perception of the results?
Tol: There have been allegations of fraud by the opposition, and there are videos circulating that appear to document fraud. However, the Turkish civil society organization Vote and Beyond looked into these claims and, while they found some irregularities, they concluded that these were not significant enough to change the outcome of the referendum. They also found that the majority of these irregularities happened in the Kurdish region. The fact that the vote was held under a state of emergency and that there are hundreds of thousands of displaced people in the Kurdish region, along with the electoral board’s last-minute decision to change the rules, all call Erdogan’s victory into question.
Turkish electoral law stipulates that ballots should be stamped by election officials and then placed in a stamped envelope before the envelope is placed in a ballot box. Unstamped papers, or papers within unstamped envelopes, are invalid by law. But the electoral board decided otherwise on the day of the referendum. This led to a strong statement from the Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe (OSCE) that said the decision “undermined an important safeguard and contradicted the law that explicitly states that such ballots should be considered invalid.” This has turned the fraud debate into a serious concern for the legitimacy of the new system in the eyes of many.

LL: Earlier you mentioned the margin of victory, which was very slim. Erdogan was clearly looking for a bigger victory that would serve as a mandate for his agenda and show broad public support for changing the constitution, but he didn’t get it. He’s now confronted by the reality that in a campaign in which he stacked the deck quite a bit in his favor, he still failed to convince almost half the country. Do you think the narrow margin of victory could, as some writers are suggesting, cause Erdogan to moderate his rhetoric and policies to some degree?
Tol: I do, and we’ve already seen that. If you look at the pro-government media and pro-government circles, there is a soul-searching going on. I’ve never heard this kind of self-criticism in AKP circles, especially from pro-government media. We’re seeing articles asking “what went wrong? What was the mistake that we made?” Very prominent, conservative, pro-AKP writers are saying that the “yes” campaign alienated people to the point that it lost Istanbul. The 49 percent who voted “no” can’t just be CHP and HDP voters—there must be a bloc of AKP voters in that group, which means that AKP alienated its own base, it alienated educated, urban AKP supporters. Why has this happened? Their answer is the very polarizing rhetoric coming from AKP officials.
So now they’ve launched this soul-searching process, and I think they’re asking the right questions. Just the other day I was watching CNN Turk, and the host was talking to a law professor, asking him whether it was possible for Erdogan to bring back the death penalty. The professor said that, according to law, even if he brings it back, he can’t use it on imprisoned PKK leaders, because you cannot apply it retroactively. The host said, “Well, who’s going to stop Erdogan?” This is unprecedented, in the sense that the mainstream media has been quite scared of Erdogan. They’ve had to pay a lot of fines for being critical of the government, so they’ve been very quiet about whatever Erdogan has been doing. That this is happening after the referendum means that people are less afraid, and there’s this newfound optimism.
Erdogan’s narrow win might be a blessing in disguise, in the sense that it may make him rethink his strategy, his rhetoric, because he lost all the major cities. He will be forced to recalibrate, because he really has to win back his own supporters. He also needs to fix the economy, which has been in a downturn that AKP has been ignoring. For that, he has to be able to attract foreign direct investment, and that requires a stable country. You can’t have the Turkish president cursing at the European Union every chance he gets. I think Erdogan is smart enough to realize that his current course is unsustainable. My hope is that this will have a moderating effect on his rhetoric and policies.

LL: Can you put Erdogan’s win into a historical context? Turkish democracy has always had challenges—repeated military coups, most infamously. Is this constitutional change simply another challenge, or is it, as some are suggesting, the end of Turkish democracy altogether?
Tol: It all depends on what the opposition does moving forward. There is a scenario that really scares Erdogan and that could, in fact, save Turkish democracy, and that is if the opposition unites in the 2019 presidential election. In a parliamentary system Erdogan was able to win election after election in part because the opposition was divided—he could capture 30-something percent of the vote and control parliament, that’s how the system works. But this may not be the case moving forward, in the sense that in the new system there will be two contenders [if no candidate wins a majority of the vote in the first round, the top two finishers face each other in a run-off], so that will mean that the opposition has to unite behind one candidate.
The fact that Erdogan only won narrowly on April 16 means that the opposition candidate could have a real chance in the 2019 election, and Erdogan could find himself completely out of the picture. What the new president does with these new powers is the question. Will they switch back to the parliamentary system? If that is the case, I think that would be great for Turkish democracy, because that means that one man tried to steal it, to switch to a presidential system to serve his own agenda, and yet the people said “no” despite all the problems the opposition encountered during the referendum. Going back to the parliamentary system will be the people’s response to Erdogan’s authoritarian turn. But, of course, the question is: would the new president do that? It all depends on negotiations between the opposition parties, if they can cut a deal and set a condition that whichever candidate wins will return to the parliamentary system.
But if Erdogan wins in 2019, then I agree that it is the end of Turkish democracy.

LL: Do you see Erdogan’s policies in Syria, in Iraq, and/or toward the Kurds in general changing now that the referendum has passed?
Tol: In the run-up to the referendum Erdogan used some very Turkish nationalist rhetoric and escalated the fight against the PKK—his goal was to galvanize the nationalist vote. So that’s why he was very interested in Syria, he was very anti-PYD, and he was also very anti-EU and anti-West. He pursued a very aggressive domestic and foreign policy. If he decides that he will not be able to mobilize the nationalists as much as he wants, he might decide to drop that nationalist strategy in order to appeal to the Kurds. So that would change his calculations and his policies.
If he decides to appeal to the Kurds instead of the nationalists, he might pursue a different policy in Syria—cooperate with the U.S. and maybe look the other way on U.S./PYD cooperation. But there have already been new cross-border operations against the Kurds in Syria and Iraq, which could indicate that he’s still counting on nationalist support. Domestically, if Erdogan decides that he needs nationalist support in 2019, he will continue pursuing the same policy toward the PYD and the PKK, nothing will change. In Iraq, Sinjar is a red line for the Turkish military, which doesn’t want to allow it to become the next PKK base in northern Iraq. Turkey has been carrying out cross-border operations in Iraq since the 1990s, so I don’t think that will change.

LL: As you mentioned a moment ago, during the campaign Erdogan took a very anti-EU and anti-West tone, which was partially dictated by events but also played well for him among nationalist voters. Now that he’s won, and with the possibility of Turkish membership in the EU still in a state of limbo, do you expect Erdogan to moderate his rhetoric on this issue, and can the Turkey-Europe relationship be patched up?
Tol: It’s complicated. Turkey has become a textbook authoritarian country, especially after the referendum, but there are also problems on the European front. Erdogan has pursued a very nationalist policy when it comes to the EU, and has said things he knew would please his nationalist supporters, who have become very anti-EU. But the same problem exists among European leaders as well—the hard right is on the rise, so European leaders are also using this populist rhetoric. And if you talk to European people and look at European societies, they are very anti-Turkey, anti-Erdogan. European leaders have to appeal to those sentiments, so when they criticize Erdogan they score points at home.
But there are also structural problems. Millions of Muslim immigrants in Europe are having problems with integration. Accepting Turkey is difficult for European leaders, and accepting an authoritarian Turkey is even more problematic. That’s why I think there’s skepticism in Ankara and in European capitals. Turkey’s potential membership in the EU is not a foreign policy issue for European leaders, it’s a domestic matter. Erdogan might tone down rhetoric, because at the end of the day Turkey and the EU have to work together. But the problems in the Turkey-EU relationship won’t go away any time soon.

LL: What do you see happening now in terms of Turkey’s relationships with the U.S. and with Russia?
Tol: The Turkey-U.S. relationship comes down to two main issues: the U.S.-PYD relationship in Syria and the extradition of [Turkish religious leader] Fethullah Gulen. I don’t see either of these things changing. I don’t think the U.S. will stop working with the PYD—as long as their priority remains defeating IS they will have to work with the PYD. The U.S. would have loved for Turkey to have had an alternative plan, to be able to commit thousands of troops, and then they would have preferred to work with Turkey and Turkish-backed rebels. But in the absence of that—and people in the Pentagon who have heard Turkey’s alternative plan never thought that it was realistic—the U.S. will keep working with the PYD.
As for the extradition of Fethullah Gulen, I don’t see anything changing on that front either. There is a legal process that’s involved, and the Trump administration can’t really interfere with that, so it will take years to resolve. That’s going to complicate things as well—as long as these two issues remain, there will always be tension in the Turkey-U.S. relationship.
Erdogan’s relationship with Russia has been very complicated. When he decided to apologize to Russia for the downing of their jet, everyone—especially pro-government media—framed it as a “spring” in Russia-Turkey relations. But behind the scenes there was always tension. There was never really a spring. Turkey thought that if it cooperated with Russia in Syria, Russia would stop working with the PYD, and that never happened. Turkey came closer to where Russia stands—it stopped talking about toppling the regime, it didn’t get involved in Aleppo—but Russia never stopped working with the PYD; it may even be building a new military base in Afrin [the PYD enclave in northwestern Syria]. There are also still problems in terms of the sanctions that Russia imposed on Turkey in the wake of the jet incident. Russia hasn’t lifted its sanctions entirely, so that clearly indicates that there are still tensions. Historically there has always been an element of competition and skepticism in the Turkey-Russia relationship, and I don’t see that changing.

LL: Finally, talk about Turkey’s role in the wider Middle East moving forward, particularly how it will navigate the Iran-Saudi Arabia feud.
Tol: If you remember [former Turkish prime minister] Ahmet Davutoglu’s “zero problems with neighbors” policy of a few years ago, at that time (before the Arab Spring) Turkish soft power was high and Turkey had become a very popular country in the region—people were naming their children after Erdogan, Turkish soap operas became very popular. So you could see Turkey rising in the region, and I think one of the reasons for that was that the region looked at Turkey as a Muslim democracy, but also as a country where religious sensitivities, Muslim sensitivities, were respected. Turkey was seen as a rising Muslim power, and people saw in it things they didn’t see in their own countries—a growing economy and a strong democracy that was trying to become an EU member.
That story is not there anymore, especially after the referendum. Everyone is calling Turkey an authoritarian country, and that’s weakening Turkey’s image in the region. Before the Arab uprisings and before Turkey’s image was tarnished, it was playing a constructive role in the region, but I don’t see that anymore. It doesn’t have that power anymore.
When it comes to joining the anti-Iran movement, Turkey has already done that. Since King Salman took over Saudi Arabia, Turkey has made a rapprochement with Saudi Arabia and joined the Sunni/anti-Iran camp. But there’s only so much that Turkey can do. There are centuries of competition in Turkey’s relationship with Iran, so there’s always going to be tension there. But on the other hand, neither country can completely afford to alienate the other. Turkey is dependent on Iranian energy, for example, so Turkey’s ability to oppose Iran is limited. It tries to balance its relationships with both countries, and I think that’s what we’ll keep seeing.
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About the Author

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Derek Davison is a Washington-based researcher and writer on international affairs and American politics. He has Master's degrees in Middle East Studies from the University of Chicago, where he specialized in Iranian history and policy, and in Public Policy and Management from Carnegie Mellon University, where he studied American foreign policy and Russian/Cold War history. He previously worked in the Persian Gulf for The RAND Corporation.

Presidential Elections in Iran

Published on April 27th, 2017 | by Ali Reza Eshraghi0

Iran Presidential Elections: No Easy Victory for Rouhani


by Ali Reza Eshraghi
Iran’s presidential elections have never been without drama. This year, the Guardian Council—a group tasked to approve candidates—set a new record for the number of disqualifications. Of the 1,636 individuals who registered, it approved only six.
However, instead of being outraged over the Guardian Council’s nebulous and undemocratic process, everyone, including the Reformists, is frustrated about the ease with which anyone in Iran can register to run for president. For instance, among those who registered this year was the infamous former president, Mahmoud Ahmadinejad.
The Iranian public and polity endured five days of fear at the possibility of Ahmadinejad’s political resurrection, until the Guardian Council unanimously decided to disqualify him and all his associates from running. This was not an easy decision. Ahmad Jannati, the 91-year-old head of the Guardian Council, was one of Ahmadinejad’s staunchest supporters and had even once described him as “the honor of the country and Islam.” But Jannati decided to protect the regime from the problems that a rogue Ahmadinejad could cause. No one is upset over Ahmadinejad’s disqualification. Even the Reformists, who on principle oppose the Guardian Council, were relieved. Having lost favor, Ahmadinejad has become a ronin of Iranian politics, a political operator without an important backer. But his story is not over yet, and we can expect another dramatic comeback from him in the future.
The regime appears to want to quietly alleviate the trauma caused by the Ahmadinejad presidency and the political repression that followed his disputed 2009 election. Ahmadinejad and his team were not the only ones who were disqualified. The Council rejected a few other hardliners. For now, provocateurs are not welcome on the political stage. Many of the figures who were loudly involved during the 2009 wave of repression have now been marginalized, and there is rarely any mention of them in the news.
However, another victory for President Hassan Rouhani, who the Reformists and even a group of moderate Principlists still endorse, is not certain and won’t be easy. His administration coordinated with other branches of government to hold the election earlier than usual, meaning that there will be less time to campaign. With less than a month left until Election Day, one can detect a social inertia. There is very little time to package a message and form election platforms. A challenge that Reformists and moderates have faced since 2005 has been to convince the urban middle-class base to come to the polls. If in 2013 these citizens were uncertain about voting—due to the 2009 repression of the Green Movement—now they’ve become politically exhausted. Even if they go to the polls they lack enthusiasm to encourage other people to do so.
Tangible Change
This mass apathy has baffled the government and analysts. In an effort to increase voter participation, Rouhani’s supporters have created a “tangible change” hashtag on social media to show how much conditions have improved since the Ahmadinejad administration. Rouhani has fulfilled his most important campaign promise of resolving the nuclear issue through negotiations. The inflation rate is down to a single digit, and Iran’s GDP annual growth rate has reached seven percent, compared to the minus two percent at the end of Ahmadinejad’s presidency. The price of staples has been relatively stable over the past four years. As a Twitter user pointed out, although a pack of Winston cigarettes went from 500 Tomans at the beginning of the Ahmadinejad presidency to 5000 Tomans by the time he left, under Rouhani, its price has remained unchanged. Medicine is once again available and affordable. Universal health care has gone into effect, and now even housewives can obtain coverage. NGOs are operating again, students are free to organize events at universities, and the censorship of books and other cultural and artistic productions has decreased. And yet people are still dissatisfied with the economic situation, and intellectuals consider social and political improvements insufficient.
Rouhani’s campaign strategy has so far been to win over voters by bombarding them with statistics and reminding them of the conditions from four years ago. But no matter how dazzling the numbers are, they still are not as captivating and motivating as his previous slogan to “open locks.” This was a smart message that resonated with voters and went viral. But this year, Rouhani’s campaign has not yet to come up with a compelling platform.
The opposition is well aware of the challenges that the current administration faces. Therefore, their primary goal is to prevent Rouhani from winning more than 50 percent of the vote in order to trigger a runoff election. Rouhani faces two main competitors. Mohammad Bagher Ghalibaf, the mayor of Tehran who lost to Rouhani in the previous election, is the ideal technocratic candidate according to the Principlists. The other is Ebrahim Raeesi, whom the Supreme Leader appointed a year ago as the custodian and chairman of the Astan Quds Razavi Foundation, one of the richest conglomerates in Iran and the biggest endowment institutions in the Muslim world.
As per traditional Iranian political courtship, before announcing his candidacy Raeesi played hard-to-get and even said he “prefers to smell a beautiful flower” instead of holding a position of power. It was a romantic gesture from a person who has held highly sensitive judicial and prosecutorial positions since the age of 20 and who is one of the main figures responsible for the mass execution of thousands of political prisoners in the summer of 1988. Reformists are itching to use this history against Raeesi in the election, but they are caught in a Catch-22, as another name associated with the mass executions is Mostafa Pour-Mohammadi, Rouhani’s minister of justice.
Jostling within Rouhani’s Opposition
As usual, there are guessing games about who the Supreme Leader’s favored candidate will be. So far in the eyes of pundits Raeesi has won the cup, in spite of Ghalibaf’s better chance of winning. Now that their candidates have been disqualified, hardliners who don’t want the normalization of domestic or foreign politics will also endorse Raeesi. To date, Raeesi has been cautious in his remarks, and unlike Qalibaf, has refrained from aggressively confronting Rouhani. But he needs the hardliners’ votes, so it won’t be a surprise if he intensifies his rhetoric to appease this constituency. Over the past few days, Raeesi has been negotiating with former officials in Ahmadinejad’s administration to help run his campaign.
As in the previous election, Principlists have been talking about collectively throwing their weight behind one candidate: Ghalibaf or Raeesi. Past experiences have shown that when election fever runs high and campaigning to win public opinion intensifies, Principlists tend to lose sight of their goal and start attacking one another. An alliance may not even be in their best interest. The total vote that the final Principlist candidate receives may not necessarily be the sum of votes each of them would have had individually, which will reduce the chances of the election going to a second round.
A shorter campaign period means fewer stump speeches and election rallies: less face-to-face and more mediated interaction. Changes in online behavior in Iran have been rapid over the past four years. Facebook has lost its standing. Telegram, which is not filtered, is now the most popular platform, but there is not much user engagement. The flow of messages in Telegram channels is one-sided, and therefore there is less opportunity for discussion. In the previous elections, Reformists held public forums in different circles of Tehran. But today, they use Instagram Live. The increased use of infographics also sets this election apart from previous ones. The mode of public deliberation is changing, and society is quickly becoming accustomed to receiving only fast, simple, and small bits of information.
But live presidential debates are still the premier method of engaging the public. The debates, first held in 2009, are now just as significant as the election itself. Winning the debate has become so important that, in an unprecedented move, Vice President Eshaq Jahangiri has decided to also run for president, not as a rival, but as Rouhani’s debate teammate. For two months, State TV has been preparing a special studio for three rounds of debates. But last week, a five-member commission that regulates election campaigns suddenly decided that the debates should be pre-recorded instead of aired live. This decision was met with fierce opposition from all candidates and political factions, including the hardliners. The severity of public backlash forced the commission to reverse its decision within 48 hours.
For years, the election in Iran has been likened to a furnace that everyone must feed to fire public participation. But the temperature is not always controllable. Even the most conservative candidates take unexpected measures and utter words that would normally be in the breach of the regime’s guidelines in an effort to connect with the voters. This election will definitely have its own surprises.
Photo: Mohammad Bagher Ghalibaf (Wikimedia Commons)
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Ali Reza Eshraghi is the Iran Project Manager at the Institute for War and Peace Reporting (IWPR) and a teaching fellow in the Department of Communication Studies at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. He was a senior editor at several of Iran's reformist dailies. During his more than 15-year career in journalism, he has published hundreds of articles and op-ed pieces in various Persian, Arabic and English media including the New York Times, CNN and Al Jazeera. Eshraghi is an alumnus of the Duke-UNC Rotary Center for International Studies in Peace and Conflict Resolution. Formerly, he was a visiting scholar at the UC Berkeley School of Journalism and The Institute of International Studies (IIS). He was also a research fellow at the Religion, Politics and Globalization Program at UC Berkeley. Eshraghi studied Political Science and Islamic Studies at Imam Sadiq University in Tehran.

Thursday, April 27, 2017

Ermeni meselesi -Özcan Pehlivanoğlu

ERMENİ MESELEMİZİ ANLAMADIK...
 
“Bugün 24 Nisan, Ermeni Meselesi ile ilgili bazı şeyleri yeniden hatırlamanın zorunlu olduğuna inanıyorum”
Türklerin memleketi Türkiye’de ve diğer Türk yurtlarında, Türk Milletinin karşı karşıya olduğu önemli meseleleri vardır. Bunlar hem sayıca çok hem de büyük yoğunluklarda olduğu için başımızı kaldırıp nefes almamız pek mümkün değildir. Zaten öyle olması da istenilmektedir...
Bu önemli meseleler, Atatürk’ün 1919’da dediklerinden anladığımız üzere; zamanın kapitalist, emperyalistleri ile günümüz küreselcilerinin, isteği ve ısrarı üzerine, devamlı olarak önümüze getirilmektedir. Bunlardan biri de; Ermenilerle yaratılmış olan sorundur.
Ancak bu meselelerin, Türk Milletine karşı bir koz olarak kullanılmasının en önemli sebebi, Türk topraklarına el konulmak istenmesidir. Bu nedenle, sorunlar önümüze, Kürt, Ermeni, Süryani, Rum vs. gibi adlandırılan meselelerle getirilmektedir.
Küresel güçlerin arkasındaki Haçlı zihniyetinin, Türklere karşı hristiyan ve müslüman olsa da etnik azınlıkları kullanma arzusu, yüzyıllardır hep ete kemiğe bürünmüştür.
Ermeniler, Türklerin zaafiyete dönüşmüş olan güven duygusu hakkında, şu kanaate sahiptirler: “Türklerin güven ve iyiniyetini bir kez bile kazanacak olursan, onlar sana tüm varlığıyla bağlanır. Çünkü onlarda değer verme gücü vardır.”
Aslında bu güzel değer; günümüzdeki gelişmelere de bakacak olursak, Türk Milleti aleyhine ağır sonuçlar doğurmaya devam etmektedir.
Türk yurdunda yaşayan Ermeniler, ülkeye bağlılıklarını yaptıkları işlerle gösterip ve kendilerine verilen işleri başarı ile bitirince, Osmanlı – Türk Devleti bu sadık vatandaşlarını sevmiş ve onları diğer tebasından daha çok kayırmıştır. Ermenilerde bu güveni Türklerin aleyhine kullanmıştır.
Tarihte yaşanmış bir çok olay, bir Türk devleti olan Osmanlı’nın ve hatta Türkiye Cumhuriyeti’nin; meselenin önemini kavrayamadığını bize gösteriyor. Böyle olunca, sıradan vatandaşında meseleyi anlaması ve tedbir alması imkansızlaşmış oluyor.
Rahmetli büyükelçi Gündüz Aktan “Açık Kriptolar” adlı kitabında, 1973 yılında ABD’nin Los Angeles şehrinde, Asala Ermeni Terör Örgütü’nün eylemleri başlayıncaya ve bu olayda, Dışişleri Bakanlığından oda arkadaşı Bahadır Demir şehit oluncaya kadar, Mülkiye mezunu olmasına ve on yıllık bakanlık tecrübesine rağmen, Ermeni meselesinden haberdar olmadığını ifade eder. Keza bu konuda çalışan Prof. Dr. Nurşen Mazıcı’da “Bu tarihe değin, Türkiye’nin Ermeni Sorunu’na ilişkin ne kapsamlı bir bilgisi, ne de buna bağlı bir çalışması vardır.” demektedir. Bu durum aslında, Türk tarafının içinde bulunduğu durumun bir özetidir!..
Türkiye’de bugün, bütün rahatsızlıklara rağmen nispi bir huzur ve güven ortamı varsa, bu yakın geçmişte taraflara bedeli acı ile ödetilmiş tehcir ve göçler nedeni iledir.
Açık konuşalım; bugün pkk terörünün arkasında bile Ermeniliğini korumuş ve kendini gizlemişlerin yoğun bir desteği vardır. Suriye ve Irak’ta yaşayan Ermenilerin, pkk saflarında Türkiye’ye ve Türk Milletine karşı adına “terör” dediğimiz bir intikam savaşı yürüttüğü aşikardır. Buna Rusların desteği ve ABD, İngiltere, AB’nin suskunluğu ile gerçekleşen Azerbaycan’ın Dağlık Karabağ bölgesinin işgali ve Hocalı Soykırımı’nı da ekleyebiliriz.
Gelişmelere Türk Milleti açısından bakarsak, Osmanlı – Türk Devleti; ülkesine ihanet eden ve küresel güçlerce kullanılan Ermenileri tehcir etmede, vatandaşlarının can, mal ve namus güvenliği ile devletinin bekasını korumak açısından son derece haklıdır. Bir devlet niçin böyle bir tedbir aldı diye suçlanamaz... Anlaşılan o durki; Ermenilerin ve destekçilerinin yaptıklarından sonra elde kalan tek çare, “tehcir” olmuştur.
Ama bugün bu tehcir kararı ve tehcir sırasında meydana gelen olaylar, küresel güçler ve onların yerli işbirlikçileri tarafından gündeme oturtulup bir “soykırım yalanı” anlatılırken, nedense Ermeni vatandaşların ihanetinden ve Türk Milletinin başına gelenlerden zerrece bahsedilmemektedir.
2015’te, 100. yılı gelen “Ermeni Tehciri” diğer tarihsel olaylar bilinmeden ve anlaşılmadan tek başına değerlendirilemez. 1915 yılından önce “93 Harbi” denilen Osmanlı – Rus Savaşı’nda Müslüman Türklerin başına gelenler, Girit’teki katliamlar, 1912 Balkan Savaşı’nın Türk soykırımı ve sürgün niteliğindeki göçleri ve de diğerleri hep bir bütünün parçalarıdır.
Günümüze de yansıyan “Ermeni Meselesi” 1915’ten önce, 1878 Berlin Kongresi’nde de vardır. Buradan da anlıyoruz ki; bu sorun Osmanlı – Türk İmparatorluğu içindeki diğer ayrılıkçı eylemlerle, aynı özelliği taşıyan ve her aşamada çeşitli kimliklere bürünen dönemsel olaylar bütününün bir parçasıdır. Hatırlayalım ki; 1915 Ermeni Tehciri’nden sonra, İngiliz ve ABD desteğiyle başlayan Yunan İşgali ile Rum tebanın ihaneti ve “Mübadele” ile sonuçlanan bir süreç daha vardır. Mübadele de en az tehcir kadar taraflara acı ve gözyaşı getirmiştir. Ama her nedense daha iş bir “Rum Meselesi” noktasına getirilememiştir. Her halde onunda Türk devletine ve Türk Milletine karşı bir kullanım zamanı vardır!
Türk Milletinin, pek fazla haberdar olmadığı ve halen yeterince önemsemediği bu “Ermeni Meselemiz”; daha 19. yüzyılda ABD, İngiltere, Fransa ve Rusya gibi ülkelerin gündemindedir. Ermeni Meselemiz, batının gündemine girdiği dönemde, günümüz Ortadoğu’suna ve kısmende Güney Kafkasya’ya resmen egemen olan Osmanlı – Türk İmparatorluğu topraklarında, bir pazar aranmasının ön yatırımı olarak nitelenmelidir. Halen Türkiye Cumhuriyeti toprakları, bu ülkeler için değişik nedenlerle çok değerlidir ve öyleyse “Ermeni Sorunu” sürdürülmelidir... Yapılanda bundan ibarettir.
Günümüzde “Ermeni Meselemiz”; uluslararası kamuoyu ile siyasal hesaplar güden ABD ve AB’li odaklarca, Türkiye’yi aşağılamak ve milli gururumuzu rencide etmek üzere kullanılmaktadır.
Bunun için değişik ülkelerin meclislerinde “sözde Ermeni soykırımını tanıyan yasa”lar kabul edilmekte ve bunları inkar edenleri hapis etmek gibi hukuki komiklikler icat edilmektedir.
Bizim Türk Milleti olarak bilmemiz icap eden şey şudur: Ermeni Meselemiz, pkk terörü ve bölücülükten, Kıbrıs Sorunundan, Türk – Yunan tartışmalarından, Lazca ve Çerkezce eğitimden, Süryanilerin şikayetleri ile bunlara benzer şeylerden ayrı düşünülemez. Ve bu konular sadece müsvedde aydınların insafına bırakılamaz. Türk Milletinin her bir ferdi bunları bilmeli ve anlamalıdır. Çünkü Türkiye’de yürütülen ve kara propaganda ile desteklenen zihin ve algı operasyonlarının, bu meselelerle derin ilişkileri vardır. Türk Milleti; 1915 – 2015 denilerek bir yüzyıl kavşağında, önüne getirilecek yapay bir sıkıntıya, şimdiden hazırlanmalı ve tedbir almalıdır.
 
Özcan PEHLİVANOĞLU, 17 Nisan 2014

Wednesday, April 26, 2017

Sinan Meydan : 23 Nisan nasıl bayram oldu?

 
 
Sinan MEYDAN
23 Nisan nasıl bayram oldu..
24 Nisan 2017
 
 
“Millet 23 Nisan'da ilk sözünü söyledi ve milli davaya atıldı. Yoktan bir ordu çıkardı. Dağılan halkı bir araya topladı. Milletin başına musallat olan halifeyi orada yalnız bıraktı. Yalnız Türklerin, yalnız Anadolu'nun değil, bütün İslam âleminin hayatını, istikbalini kurtaracak bir devletin temellerini 23 Nisan'da attı. 23 Nisan günü bu milletin, özgür ve bağımsız Anadolu'nun sonsuza kadar millî bir bayramıdır.” (Bursa Milletvekili Muhittin Baha Bey, 23 Nisan 1921)
Nisan 1921,
Anadolu işgal ve isyan ateşiyle yanıyordu.
1 Nisan'da Yunan ordularını yenip II. İnönü Zaferi'ni kazandık.
7 Nisan'da Aslıhanlar Savaşı'nı kaybettik. Yunan Ordusu, Dumlupınar mevzilerine yerleşti.
15 Nisan'da Anzavur İsyanı bastırıldı. Anzavur, Biga yakınlarında öldürüldü.
15 Nisan'da yeni Yunan Başbakanı Gunaris ve bazı Yunan bakanlar İzmir'e geldiler. Yunan Ordusu'nun güçlendirilip taarruza geçmesini kararlaştırıp geri döndüler.


 
23 NİSAN TARTIŞMALARI
Tarih 23 Nisan 1921.
Günlerden cumartesi.
24'üncü içtima.
Başkanlık makamında Birinci Reis Vekili Hasan Fehmi Bey oturuyor.
TBMM'nin toplanmasının üzerinden tamı tamına bir yıl geçmiş; milletin egemenliğini kendi eline almasının birinci yıl dönümü.
Saruhan Milletvekili Refik Şevket Bey ve arkadaşları ile İçel Milletvekili Şevki Bey, 23 Nisan'ın “milli bayram ilan edilmesi” hakkında Meclis'e bir kanun teklifi verdiler.
Şevki Bey teklifinde, “23 Nisan 1920 gününde Büyük Millet Meclisi kurularak milletin yazgısıyla ilgili işlere el koyduğu mutlu bir gün olduğundan, (bugünü) halkın yüreğinde yüceltmek için, bu tarihin resmi bayram olmasını” öneriyordu.
Sonra görüşmelere başlandı.
 
MEHMET VEHBİ EFENDİ'NİN İTİRAZI
İlk sözü Konya Milletvekili Hoca Vehbi Efendi aldı. İlk Meclis'teki sarıklı milletvekillerinden biriydi. İstanbul'daki Son Osmanlı Mebusan Meclisi'nin dağıtılmasıyla Ankara'daki Meclis'e katılmıştı. İlk Meclis'te din işleriyle ilgili görevler almıştı.


 
23 Nisan'ın “mutlu bir gün” olduğunu, ancak düşmanları yenip İzmir'e “o mübarek bayrağımızı” diktiğimiz gün gerçek amacımıza ulaşacağımızı söyledi. Bu gibi bayramların milletin yüreğinden doğduğunu,“nümayiş yapmakla” bayram olamayacağını ve milletin “manevi gücünün” bunlarla artmayacağını belirtti. Sonra işi dine bağlayıp şöyle dedi: “Rica ederim. İçimizde bir tek Hıristiyan yoktur. Ezanı Muhammedi okunuyor da aldırış etmiyoruz! Eğer milletin gücünü arttırmak, moralini yükseltmek istersek onu itikat noktasında güçlendirmenin çaresine bakalım.”
Vehbi Hoca, milletin gücünün milli bayramlarla değil “itikatın güçlendirilmesiyle” artacağını ileri sürüyordu.
Hoca'nın sözlerine Kırşehir Milletvekili Yahya Galip Bey, “O başkadır efendim” diye karşılık verdi.
Vehbi Hoca devam etti: “Nasıl başka? (…) Milletimiz, milli amacına tam olarak ulaştığı gün yüreğinde gerçek bir bayram yaşatır. Rica ederim, böyle bir kanuna ne ihtiyaç vardır?”
Malatya Milletvekili Fevzi Efendi söze karıştı:
“Geçen yıl Ankara'ya sekiz saatlik yerde savaş oluyordu. Biz burada üzüntü ile oturuyorduk. Hamdolsun bu yıl askerlerimiz daha ileri gitmiştir.”
Vehbi Hoca görüşünde ısrar etti.
Fevzi Efendi (Malatya), “Kutsal günleri takdir etmezsek o günlerin değeri kalmaz” dedi.
MELEKLERİN YÜCELTTİĞİ GÜN
Kırşehir Milletvekili Yahya Galip Bey, Vehbi Hoca'yı çok sert eleştirdi. Öyle ki Hoca'yı Ankara'ya İngilizlerin gönderdiğini bile iddia etti. Vehbi Hoca'nın “doğru düşünmediğini” söyledi. Sonra da 23 Nisan'ın neden bayram olması gerektiğini anlattı:
“Bu öyle bir milli bayramdır ki, bunun üzerinde hiçbir bayram düşünülemez. Millet kurtuluş ve mutluluk beratını o gün almıştır. Ve inşallah bu sonsuza kadar devam edecek. (…) Hoca Efendi Hazretleri, bugünü gökteki melekler bile yüceltiyor, siz neden yüceltmek istemiyorsunuz?”
Yahya Galip Bey sözlerine şöyle devam etti:
“Ne vakit böyle bir milli bayram olur; memleketin sevinçli anları olur, bunun içine ‘İslam ahlakı' sokarlar. Biz bunu temenni ederiz ki, İslam ahlakı tamamıyla gerçekleşsin (…) Ama her gün, her fırsattan yararlanarak temcit pilavı gibi bunu söylemekten ne çıkar? Ben anlamıyorum.”
 
BÜTÜN MÜSLÜMANLARIN BÜYÜK GÜNÜ
Sonra Saruhan Milletvekili Mahmut Celal Bey (Bayar) söz aldı. İstanbul'un işgalinden bahsetti. “Bütün insanlığın, hain ve rezil düşmanı olan İngilizlerin”, halifelik makamına saldırdıklarını söyledi. “Papaz Fru adında bir casus, ne yazık ki bugünkü padişahı avucunun içine almış” dedi.
Neşet Bey (İstanbul), yerinden şöyle bağırdı: “O da onun gibidir. Kahrolsun!”
Mahmut Celal Bey, 23 Nisan'da umutsuzluğun yenildiğini belirtti. O gün, “Büyük bir ümitle kalplerini birleştirenler, insanlık dünyasına karşı bağırdılar: Biz tutsaklığı kesin olarak reddediyoruz. Bağımsız olarak yaşadık ve yaşayacağız. Bu bizim hakkımızdır. Rica ederim bu, bütün Müslümanlar için büyük bir gün değil midir?” İçeriden “Hay hay” sesleri yükseldi.
 
ALİ ŞÜKRÜ BEY'İN İTİRAZI
Muhaliflerden Trabzon Milletvekili Ali Şükrü Bey, 23 Nisan'ın sadece Meclis'in isteğiyle değil, tüm milletin isteğiyle bayram olabileceğini söyledi. 23 Nisan'ın gayet değerli, önemli bir gün olduğunu, ancak henüz Kurtuluş Savaşı'nın kazanılmadığını, daha özgür olmadığımızı, ne zaman özgür olacağımızın da belli olmadığını belirterek 23 Nisan'ın bayram olmasına karşı çıktı. Ayrıca kazanılacak zaferin millete ait olacağını, bu nedenle “Meclis'in kendi kendine ‘Ben bu işi yaptım. 23 Nisan'da burada toplandığım için bugünü bayram yapıyorum, bugünü siz de bayram yapın” demesinin uygun olmadığını söyledi.
Fevzi Efendi (Malatya), “Pek yanlış söylüyorsunuz” diye seslendi.
Ali Şükrü Bey sözlerini sürdürdü: “Efendiler; bunu millet esaretten kurtulup İstanbul'a kavuştuğu, Edirne'sine, İzmir'ine kavuştuğu, Bursa'sına kavuştuğu zaman kendisi yapacaktır. Bizi bu muzafferiyetlere ulaştıran 23 Nisan'da şurada toplayan millettir. Bunu millet yapacaktır. (…) Bizim bunu teklif etmemiz uygun değildir.”
 
23 NİSAN'IN FARKI
Bursa Milletvekili Muhittin Baha Bey söz aldı. 22 Nisan ile 23 Nisan arasındaki farkı düşününce 23 Nisan'ın milli bayram olup olmayacağına karar verilebileceğini söyledi. Sonra aradaki farkı anlattı.


 
“22 Nisan'da bize hıyanet etmiş, yüksek halifelik ve saltanat makamına tecavüz etmiş bir adam (Padişah Vahdettin) ve onun takımı vardı. Millet başsızdı” dedi. Sonra 23 Nisan'da açılan Meclis'in neler yaptığını anlattı. “Biz bugünü milli bayram yapmakla şerefi kendimize almıyoruz. Biz ne yaptık? Yapan millettir” dedi. Sözlerini, “23 Nisan günü bu milletin, özgür ve bağımsız Anadolu'nun sonsuza kadar millî bir bayramıdır” diye bitirdi.
Kırşehir Milletvekili Müfit Efendi, “Efendiler, bugünün bir milli bayram olması gereklidir” diye söze girdi. İki gün önce Afgan Elçisi Sultan Ahmet Han'ı karşılamak için gittiğinde onun, “Elli yedi gündür 23 Nisan'a yetişmek için menziller aşarak geliyorum” dediğini aktardı. “Bugünü her bayramdan daha saygı değer olarak kabul etmeliyiz” dedi.
 
MİLLİ HÂKİMİYET BAYRAMI
Teklif sahiplerinden Saruhan Milletvekili Refik Şevket Bey, 23 Nisan'ın mutlaka bayram olması gerektiğini savundu:
“Efendiler, rica ederim, milli amacımızı gerçekleştirmek için attığımız adımın şerefi hürmetine bunu bir kutsal tarih olarak tespit etmekle yükümlüyüz. (…) Efendiler, yüreklerimizde zafer azmini öyle bir güçlü imanla yaşattık ki, bütün bu şereflerin, bütün bu başarıların ilk adımı 23 Nisan'dır. Rica ederim, bunu kabul etmekte ne sakınca vardır?”
Refik Koraltan (Konya), “23 Nisan'ın milli bayram olarak kabulünü rica ederim” dedi.
Tunalı Hilmi Bey (Bolu), “Efendim, milli bayramdır, Türkçe olsun” dedi.
Abdülkadir Kemali (Kastamonu), “Efendim, milli bayram olsun” dedi.
Görüşmelerde, Vehbi Hoca ve Ali Şükrü Bey dışında 23 Nisan'ın milli bayram olmasına kimse itiraz etmedi.
Görüşmeler bitince başkan söz aldı:
“Efendim, milli bayram olması teklif ediliyor. Kabul edenler lütfen el kaldırsın. Kabul edildi…” (Görüşmeler için bkz. TBMM Zabıt Ceridesi, Devre 1, Cilt 10, s. 69-74.)
Böylece, “23 Nisan'ın millî bayram kabulüne dair” 112 sayılı kanun çıkarıldı.
1 Kasım 1922'de saltanat kaldırılınca 1 Kasım da Hâkimiyet-i Milliye Bayramı ilan edildi.
Zamanla 23 Nisan, Millî Hâkimiyet Bayramı olarak kutlanmaya başlanınca 1 Kasım kutlamalarından vazgeçildi.
1935'te çıkarılan 2739 sayılı kanunla bayram, “Ulusal Egemenlik Bayramı” olarak adlandırıldı.
1981'de kabul edilen 2429 sayılı kanunla bayramın adı “23 Nisan Ulusal Egemenlik ve Çocuk Bayramı” oldu.
 
ÇOCUK BAYRAMI
1922'de Ankara'daki 23 Nisan kutlamalarına öğrencilerin de katılması ayrı bir coşku yarattı. Atatürk'ün desteğini alan Himaye-i Etfal Cemiyeti, 23 Nisan 1923'te yetim ve öksüz çocuklar için yardım toplamaya başladı. Bu sırada yardım amaçlı rozetler çocuklar tarafından satıldı. Böylece 23 Nisan'da çocuklar ön plana çıktı. 23 Nisan'ın çocuk bayramı olmasını isteyen Atatürk'ün de bu faaliyetlere destek olmasıyla 1925'te, 23 Nisan aynı zamanda “Çocuk Günü”, 1926'dan itibaren ise “Çocuk Bayramı” olarak kutlandı. İlk kapsamlı “Çocuk Bayramı” kutlamaları Atatürk'ün himayesinde 1927'de yapıldı. 23 Nisanlar, 1929'dan itibaren “Çocuk Haftası” olarak kutlandı.
 
23 Nisan kutlu olsun
Anadolu'nun ateşler içinde yandığı 1921'de TBMM tartışmayla, görüşmeyle 23 Nisan'ı milli bayram ilan etti. Millet, egemenliğine sahip olduğu günü, 96 yıldır bayram olarak kutluyor.
Hiçbir şey, milletin 23 Nisan coşkusuna gölge düşüremez. Bir ölüm kalım savaşı sırasında, işgal altında bile kutlanan
23 Nisanları, “cebren ve hile ile” ulusal egemenliğimizin gasp edilmek istendiği bugünlerde daha büyük bir coşkuyla kutluyoruz.
 
Çanakkale kahramanı
Atatürk, 25 Nisan 1915 sabahı Arıburnu'na çıkan düşmanı, inisiyatif kullanıp da durdurmasaydı; 9, 10, 21 Ağustos'ta Conkbayırı'nda, Anafartalar'da zaferler kazanmasaydı,18 Mart Çanakkale Zaferi bugün Kut Zaferi gibi sonuçsuz bir zafer olurdu. Çünkü Çanakkale kaybedilirdi.
Atatürk Çanakkale'deki üstün başarısıyla 25 Nisan-16 Mayıs 1915 arasında Arıburnu Kuvvetler Komutanlığı'na getirildi. 1 Haziran'da albaylığa terfi etti. 8 Ağustos-10 Aralık 1915 arasında Anafartalar Grup Komutanlığı yaptı.Tam 3 kolorduya komuta etti. Çanakkale'de Mareşal Liman Von Sanders'ten sonra en fazla kuvveti, en uzun süre Atatürk yönetti.


Çanakkale düşük rütbelilerin ve rütbesizlerin zaferidir: Çanakkale'nin kahramanları Yarbay Mustafa Kemaller'dir, Yarbay Hüseyin Avniler'dir, Mehmet Çavuşlar'dır, Seyit Onbaşılar'dır…
Atatürksüz Çanakkale Savaşı tarihi yazılamaz, yazılırsa bu bir zafer değil ancak yenilgi olur.
Atatürk'le aldatmak
Devlet imkânları, baskılar ve YSK müdahalesiyle yüzde 51 ‘evet'le sonuçlanan 16 Nisan referandumunun meşruiyet tartışması üzerine yandaş medya, “Atatürk de 1 oy farkla seçim kazandı” demeye başladı.
Ancak bu koca bir yalan.
24 Nisan 1920'de yapılan Meclis Başkanlığı seçimine 120 milletvekili katıldı. Seçimde elle yazılan müşterek oy pusulası kullanıldı. Başkanlık için Atatürk'ten başka aday gösterilmedi. Atatürk, 110 oyla 1. başkan seçildi. Celalettin Arif Bey ise 109 oyla 2. başkan seçildi. (TBMM Zabıt Ceridesi, Devre: 1, Cilt 1, İçtima 1, 24. 4. 1336). Yani iki ayrı seçim yapıldı. Atatürk, 1 oy farkla değil, yüzde 91'le seçildi. 1 oy farkla seçilmiş olması için birden fazla aday olmalıydı ve oylamaya 110+109= 219 milletvekili katılmalıydı. Ancak 1. başkanlık için Atatürk tek adaydı ve 120 oyun 110'unu aldı.
Demem o ki, o yüzde 91, bu yüzde 51'i meşrulaştırmaz
* ** * * * *
 

Madain Saleh, Nabateans' second largest city

Madain Saleh isn’t as well-known as Petra, but the Nabateans’ second-largest city played a crucial role in their mysterious empire.        

 By Marjory Woodfield
As always, our Saudia Airline flight from Riyadh to Medina started with prayer.
“Ladies and gentlemen,” the flight attendant said over the intercom. “The text that you are about to hear is a supplication that the prophet Mohammed, peace be upon him, used to pray before travelling.”
Madain Saleh was once a thriving city along an ancient spice trade route (Credit: Marjory Woodfield)
Madain Saleh was once a thriving city along an ancient spice trade route (Credit: Marjory Woodfield)

The rest was in Arabic. I listened to the record voice, low and ponderous, as I looked out the small window at the unending desert below. I was travelling with friends to Saudi Arabia’s hidden desert city of Madain Saleh. While many people have heard of Nabatean capital  Petra in Jordan, Madain Saleh, the Nabateans’ second-largest city and a Unesco World Heritage Site, remains relatively unknown. Once a thriving city along the ancient spice route, it played a crucial role in building a trade empire. But today its monumental stone-hewn tombs are some of the last, and best preserved, remains of a lost kingdom.
Its monumental stone-hewn tombs are some of the last, and best preserved, remains of a lost kingdom.
From Medina, we drove four hours to the oasis town of Al Ula, and then continued a little ways further to our hotel in Saudi Arabia’s Hejaz province, 1,043km northwest of Riyadh. Our guide Ahmed met us next morning after breakfast. He was tall, lightly bearded and wore a traditional Arabic thobe (robe) and red ghutra (head scarf). Smiling, he told us that he learned his English in New Zealand.
As we drove roughly 40km north of the hotel towards Madain Saleh, Ahmed told us about the Nabateans, whose wealth and prosperity came from their ability to source and store water in harsh desert environments. They also held a monopoly on desert trade routes as far southwest as Madain Saleh and north to the Mediterranean port of Gaza. They extracted taxes from camel caravans – laden with frankincense, myrrh and spices – that stopped at their garrisoned outposts for water and rest.
Madain Saleh was the second largest Nabatean city after Petra (Credit: Marjory Woodfield)
Madain Saleh was the second largest Nabatean city after Petra (Credit: Marjory Woodfield)

However, in 106 AD, the Nabatean Empire was annexed by the Romans, and Red Sea routes overtook land trading routes. Nabatean cities were no longer centres of trade, and so began their decline and ultimate abandonment.
Tucked away in the desert, today Madain Saleh is deserted, silent and stunningly well-preserved. Much of the city still lies under layers of sand.
What has been uncovered is a vast necropolis of more than 131 immense tombs. At first, their sheer scale and number was overwhelming. But as we looked closer, the Nabateans' artistry was revealed through carvings of soaring eagles, imposing sphinxes and feathered griffins, not to mention intricate inscriptions. We stopped in front of one tomb, whose inscription translated as being for ‘Hany son of Tansy… and descendants’, and ended with a date and name: ‘April 31AD… carved by Hoor… the sculptor’.
Tomb inscriptions in Madain Saleh provide insight into lives of the Nabatean civilisation (Credit: Credit: Marjory Woodfield)
Tomb inscriptions in Madain Saleh provide insight into lives of the Nabatean civilisation (Credit: Marjory Woodfield)

Tomb inscriptions provided insight into the names, relationships, occupations, laws and gods of the people who lived here. The Nabateans left no extensive written history, so these texts, unique to Madain Saleh, are extraordinarily valuable. Ahmed explained that the inscriptions were written in Aramaic, an ancient Semitic language and the lingua franca of the Middle East at that time. Aramaic would have been essential knowledge for business and commerce communication, although the Nabateans also used an early form of Arabic – traces of which Ahmed pointed out in the inscriptions.
The silence was overwhelming.
Of all the tombs, Qasr al Farid was particularly impressive – principally for its size because the façade was relatively simple. A central door with a decorated pediment was the entry to the interior, where bodies would have been laid in recessed shelves along the walls.
From Qasr al Farid, the views of the rock-hewn desert presented their own extraordinary drama. Golden sandstone outcrops rose from a flat sandy floor, sculpted into crooked spires and conical structures by centuries of wind and rain. And the silence was overwhelming. Looking out from a tomb interior, it was only our footprints and van tyre marks that disturbed the stillness.
Many Muslims will not come to Madain Saleh because they believe it is cursed (Credit: Credit: Marjory Woodfield)
Many Muslims will not come to Madain Saleh because they believe it is cursed (Credit: Marjory Woodfield)

Unlike Petra with its tourists, souvenir sellers and donkey rides, there were no other people here. Muslims will not come here because they believe the site was cursed when the Nabatean’s refused to renounce their gods in favour of Islam, and tourist visas for non-Muslims to enter Saudi Arabia are notoriously difficult to obtain. It’s the very absence of foot traffic, as well as Saudi Arabia’s dry desert climate, that’s has kept Madain Saleh so intact. While Petra’s facades are slowly disintegrating, these tombs are stunningly well preserved.
We wandered the necropolis at will, peering in and out of tombs, touching the cold, age-old stone and losing sense of time. A few hours later we climbed back into our van and headed northeast to Jabal Ithlib, a monumental rocky outcrop believed to have been a religious sanctuary for the worship of the Nabatean god Dushara, Lord of the Mountains.
Madain Saleh’s tombs are stunningly well preserved (Credit: Marjory Woodfield)
Madain Saleh’s tombs are stunningly well preserved (Credit: Marjory Woodfield)

The jagged cliff walls of the siq, a narrow, 40m-long natural passageway that led to Jabal Ithlib, had decorated votive niches to Nabatean gods carved into the rock and petroglyphs of camels and traders. Ahmed pointed to a series of canals that once channelled water into cisterns – examples of the Nabatean ability to manipulate rain run-off and underground aquifers.
We set out along Jebel Ithlib’s southeastern slope, climbing Mount Ethleb. Dressed as I was in the mandatory head-to-toe black abaya (cloak) this was something of a challenge. My undignified scramble to the summit was well worth it, however. We faced west across a vast plain, and I imagined traders and camels approaching Madain Saleh, their panniers full of frankincense. These resinous nuggets, extracted from the Boswellia sacra tree, are as valuable as they are rare. They would have been destined for the wealthiest Romans, Greeks, Egyptians and Israelites.
Large portions of Madain Saleh have yet to be excavated (Credit: Marjory Woodfield)
Large portions of Madain Saleh have yet to be excavated (Credit: Marjory Woodfield)

As the sun dipped below the horizon, we drove back towards the outskirts of the ancient city, stopping by a cluster of tombs. We spread brightly patterned carpets on the sand, drank Arabic coffee and passed around traditional date-filled mammoul biscuits. In front of us, Madain Saleh’s sandstone tombs glowed gold with the last remnants of sun. The silence hung around us like a thick blanket as we watched the desert colours slowly fade into darkness.